2024 red paddle co racing paddle boards - 2024 range of inflatable race SUP paddle board

How To Repair your Inflatable Stand Up Paddleboard

Hi, I’m Jimmy Blakeney with BIC Sport (now TAHE Inflatable SUPs) and in this video, we’re going to talk about how to repair your inflatable stand up paddleboard. Our iSUPS are extremely durable, however we do include a repair kit with every board in the unlikely event that you do get a puncture. Your repair kit comes with 2 rectangular PVC patches and a valve wrench. Note that we do not include the glue with the repair kit due to HAZMAT shipping restrictions, so you’ll have to purchase the glue separately. We recommend Clifton Urethane Adhesive or Stabond, (or AquaSeal) but any vinyl adhesive will do. Whichever one you use, be sure to carefully read and follow the instructions on the type of glue you’re using.

If your board is losing air, the first thing you should do is take the included valve wrench in your repair kit and tighten down your valve. The valve sits inside of a seat and when you tighten it with the valve wrench, this makes sure it’s properly seated and that no air is leaking from around the valve. If that doesn’t solve the problem, the next step is to locate the leak.

If your board is fully inflated, you might be able to hear it, but if not, you want to take some soapy water and spray it around the board in the areas where you suspect the leak. The soapy water will bubble in the areas where there is a leak. Once you’ve identified from where your board is leaking, you want to wipe it dry and mark the area.

To perform the repair, you’re going to need the following items: the PVC patch included in your repair kit, vinyl adhesive, MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) as a solvent, however acetone or alcohol will do as well, a spoon or roller, 180 grit sand paper, gloves and a rag. The rectangular patch included in your repair kit is typically a good size for the repair, however round shapes are best to avoid corners on the patch that can potentially snag. Make sure you have about 3 inches of patch material on all sides of the leak to ensure a good seal. Next, place the patch over the leak and trace it on the board. Now you will want to use 180 grit sand paper and buff both the patch and the marked area on the board. This provides the ideal surface to create the strongest possible bond with the glue and the PVC.

The next step is to clean the patch and marked area of the board with MEK very thoroughly. To do this, you’re going to clean it once, wait 5 minutes, clean it a second time, wait 5 minutes, and then clean it a third time. Now you’re ready to apply the glue with which you’re going to be apply 3 coats. Apply a thin layer to both the patch and the marked area on the board, spreading it around evenly with the brush. Wait 5 minutes and repeat, then wait another 5 minutes and repeat again. After the 3rd application of glue to both surfaces, wait 5 more minutes, then press the patch into place on the marked area on the board. Be sure to avoid any air bubbles. You can then use a spoon to apply pressure over the patch, working from the centre towards the edges to remove any possible air bubbles. Wipe off any excess glue with MEK and apply masking tape over the patch. Be sure to wait 24 hours before inflating your board and checking to make sure your repair was a success.

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About the author: Julian Kidd
I have been an avid stand up paddle boarder since 2009. I retired from a decade of professional kiteboarding to focus on SUP. Green Water Sports grew from this love of all things SUP. As well as being a keen paddle boarder, I'm a football fan, closet petrol head, web tinkerer, husband and father.